Service...with a frown?

I’ve been at home now for a few days, before my next adventure, which has given me an opportunity to look back on my time in Prague. Overall it was a positive learning experience, but I wouldn't be a good blogger if I didn't take off my rose-coloured glasses once in a while and give the people the truth... right? I also wouldn't be a good traveller if I didn't take the good with the bad.

After my delightful weekend in Dublin, I hit a bit of a slump and couldn’t wait to come home. Although Prague looks like something out of a fairy-tale, it isn't perfect (and of course, no city is)! 

So, what in particular is irking me? What’s up with that title?

Well, first of all, I think the best way to put it is to say that there is a certain warmth missing in the Czech psyche. I am speaking generally so don't take offence if you don't fit into the mould of the typical Czech. Or, maybe, South Africans are just extra friendly people and go out of their way to make you feel welcome. They may have just met you and they’ll already be inviting you to a braai.   

Fancy a braai? You bring the potato salad!

Not "What can I do for you?", but "What do you want?"

It seems that most waiters couldn't care less whether you were giving them service or not. I lingered for about 5 minutes in the door of a (fancy) restaurant, waiting for someone to say that I could have a seat or show me to my table. In those few minutes, at least three waiters passed and ignored me. When I went up to one and asked if I could have a seat anywhere, he answered "no, only where there aren't people"... No duh.  

No thank you, Grand Café Orient!

We, the customers, clearly aren't keeping them in business. They also don't pay you any attention until you want the bill! Since it’s rude to wave to the waiter, you have to contort yourself in order to make eye contact. Then they make sure to tell you that "tip is not included". This is directed at foreigners since most Czech people don't tip in restaurants, apart from rounding up the bill. 

Be warned: Nobody will tell you if a restaurant is cash-only or if they only take Koruna. So, best you check with them before you sit down and eat a whole meal. 

And it's not only the waiters. The shop assistants sigh heavily when you don't understand them and the beautician plainly refuses to help you because you are "Anglický" (English), even though you've learnt the Czech name of the treatment that you want. I know that I don't look like a Czech person at all, but that's no reason for people to openly stare in the streets... or to scowl at me for that matter (see my previous post). 

You try asking for a wax in Czech! 

And there's more! Poop all over the cobbled streets, because people can't be bothered to pick up their dog's business...  

And the cherry on top; the physical abuse in the streets. More than once during my stay, I saw well-dressed couples arguing and actually physically fighting in the middle of the road in broad daylight. One man even spat in a woman's face. Another time I watched, horrified, as a man tried to knock down a tram-stop post, because he was so mad at his girlfriend! 

I wonder what the tram stop ever did to him...

I decided to bring the matter up with one of my new Czech friends. She said that because the Czech people had been under a communist regime for so long, there is no culture of service. Czech people don't know how to serve others, perhaps because the previous government looked after them under communism. 

Anyway, it made me proud to be South African. There’s so much that goes on in the way of community service here. There is no shortage of places to volunteer at and so many people I know are engaged with community projects; you could build houses in the townships, read to children in hospital, or help them with their homework. 

Painting a children's playground in Cape Town.

I think that the Duke of Edinburgh's International Award could be pivotal in changing the attitudes of the Czech youth. The Award helps to grow a culture of service and social responsibility. Young people learn the importance of helping others, over themselves. And when we help others we learn to be grateful for what we have and I think that makes us happier people. 

40 Czech students were awarded their Gold Awards, by HRH the Countess of Wessex,
at the Duke of Edinburgh's International Award's Gold Award Ceremony on 20 May 2015.

Rant over. 

Fridge-less in Prague!

As my time in Prague is drawing to an end (where did the time go?), I find myself reflecting on my first two weeks in this fairy-tale city.

I landed in Prague knowing only that someone called Kristýna would be waiting for me, and that she would be the blonde in the red coat. I was so worried that she would just drop me off at my apartment and leave me to fend for myself. Instead, she saw me up to the apartment and showed me where the tram stop was. "Let's hope your building has a lift!", said my mom, after watching me lug my suitcase down the stairs. Thank goodness it does! 

When she left I noticed that the flat was quite bare, with two bright green and orange plastic plates and bowls, and one teaspoon. But it made me feel quite special to see a plate with homemade muffins and fresh tulips in a vase.

Before

My first weekend was all about adjusting, before I started my internship the next week, and that was great. I was determined to get out of the apartment and explore the city. The first thing I did was to make my apartment more homely (I bought a pink carpet and a mat, put a fruit bowl here and there and magazines on the coffee table, under a ruby red candle – it needed some love) and try all of the Czech food and drink (trdelník, langoše and svařák)*.

After

I had never lived on my own before, so, that has been a real experience and adventure in itself. At the time, I was excited, but also worried about being lonely, as I consider myself to be a people's person. Looking back, I think I've managed just fine, except for the few conversations I've had with myself, in my head, before I made friends.

The weekend began with a quick Google of the days of the week in Czech to figure out what would be open over the Easter weekend. Despite the cold, the city centre was buzzing, with activities in every square, live music and stalls selling hot wine, Czech beer, sweet pastries, beautifully painted Easter eggs and wooden sticks with colourful ribbons.

I saw lots of little boys carrying these sticks around and even a man on a motorcycle with lots of ribbons attached to a broomstick. As part of an Easter Czech tradition, boys go around hitting girls with their sticks and only stop if the girls give them painted eggs. Make of that what you will!

A giant cracked egg next to Charles Bridge.

An "egg tree" in the city centre.

I was minus a fridge for two weeks, after being assured that it would arrive on Easter Monday. It was a curse and a blessing... I guess. Coffee creamer in my tea versus eating out a lot and getting to know the city (but you do crave a homemade meal after two weeks!). Also, cooking for one person is hard! 

It was a wee bit cold for my South African blood that first weekend, so, my mom (I think jokingly) suggested that I put my groceries on my windowsill - which probably would have worked, because it was 2°C outside! So much for Spring!

*Trdelník is a sweet Czech pastry made from leavened dough cooked over hot coals and then rolled in cinnamon sugar and almond flakes. There’s a Nutella option, which does not disappoint! A trdlo is the wooden stake the dough is wrapped around for cooking which gives it its traditional hollow shape.

Langoše (basically a Czech pizza) is a deep fried flatbread which is topped with garlic, grated cheese and tomato sauce, and served hot.

Svařák is mulled or hot wine. It’s dark purple, spicy and perfect for 2°C weather! 

Saving the World Two Tanks at a Time

Perhaps you're wondering what I'm up to when I'm not doing walking tours of Prague, visiting Bone Chapels or being called a Step-geek. 

Well, I am an intern at an NGO, the Duke of Edinburgh’s International Award for Young People: Czech Republic (it’s called the President’s Award for Youth Empowerment in South Africa). I have completed the gold level of the Award, which means that I completed 5 tasks: learned a new skill, did 72hrs of community service, went on a 5-day adventure hike, participated in a sport and spent one month at a residential project. All these tasks had to be completed within the space of 18 months and I had to show progress in each component. 

I'd never really thought about doing the Award until half way through my second last year of high school. The main reason I hadn't considered it, was because of the adventure hike. I am a city-slicker through and through. Hiking is not my cup of tea. But I thought "it's now or never" (I seem to do that a lot) and decided to do the Award. 

Image: http://www.holidaybug.co.za/the-best-hikes-garden-route/

For the residential project, I got to spend one month in Thailand and it was honestly one of the best experiences of my life. I found myself in a small village in the north of Thailand, in the mountains. The village had no drinking water, no electricity and no showers. It was really basic. The week before we arrived, they had built one flushing toilet. I bet you're thinking "Wow. Is this the same girl who hates hiking?" Well, something changed that year. 

    

Our task was to provide the village with clean drinking water. This entailed finding a water source, digging trenches from the water source to the village, laying down pipes and building two large water storage tanks. Standing in front of those tanks and hearing the water run into them and knowing that the village would have fresh water long after we left, must be the most rewarding thing I have ever done.

Perhaps not the most stable-looking scaffolding. 
Don't look now, mom!

The Team

The Thai people were so warm and accommodating and although we did not speak the same language, we managed to get by with smiles. I stayed in the same little house as the grandfather of the village, with two other girls on the project. Every night, without fail, Gramps would shake the entire house with his thunderous snoring, and every morning, the village rooster would crow right underneath us. Oh, did I mention I’m not too keen on birds either!

With Gramps

I really believe that the Duke of Edinburgh's Award has played an important part of who I have become in the last few years, and it doesn't hurt that it looks great on my CV. But who would have thought that I would land up interning in Prague!

8 million young people from 140 countries around the world have participated in the Duke of Edinburgh’s International Award. Check the Award out at: http://www.intaward.org/

On my way to save the world...